Landscape Photography Iceland

For better orientation, I have attached an overview map on the left (for more details, please click on the map on the left). Iceland has an area of approximately 103,000 km², which is about the size of the two German federal states of Bavaria and Baden-Württemberg combined. Even more interesting is the low population density of 3.1 inhabitants per km², as there are only about 320,000 inhabitants in Iceland. If you consider that about 2/3 of the population live in the greater Reykjavík area, you can imagine that the infrastructure of Iceland is incomparable to any other European country.
The easiest and most comfortable way to reach Iceland is by plane (approximately 3.5 hours flight time from Frankfurt). Iceland's international airport is located near the small town of Keflavík, which is about 50 km from Reykjavík and well connected by the Flybus.
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Island offers nearly endless waterfalls, and not a few of them are located in the south of the country. Some very well-known waterfalls are located directly on Iceland's main road 1. The well-developed main road 1 is a circular route that circles the entire island and has a total length of approximately 1300 km. Many attractions are located along this ring road and are very easily accessible. The downside of the good accessibility is that one is hardly ever alone there at any time of day, and at certain times, tour buses arrive every half hour.
If you visit waterfalls outside of the "Golden Circle," you will generally be spared from mass tourism. The "Golden Circle" is the popular route in the south that includes Þingvellir National Park, the Haukadalur geothermal area with geysers, and the Gullfoss waterfall.
The somewhat remote Háifoss waterfall (with a drop of 122 meters) is located about 70 km from the Ring Road and can be reached via Route 32 and 332 (see map). The gravel road 332 is not classified as an F-road (see driving in Iceland), and therefore it would be passable with any vehicle. However, the condition of the road is so poor that personally, I would only drive to Háifoss with an off-road vehicle. After visiting Háifoss, a visit to Gjáin (Icelandic: "the canyon"), about 10 km away, is also recommended. Gjáin is a canyon with many waterfalls and cascades and offers great hiking opportunities.

Brúárfoss is for me one of the most beautiful waterfalls in Iceland and I have visited this extraordinary waterfall with its turquoise water in all seasons. Brúárfoss is located about 15 km southwest of Geysir Center on Route 37 in a holiday home development. Unfortunately, in 2018, tourists misbehaved in the area, so the landowner has now completely blocked access to the waterfall. The year before, you could still hike to the waterfall on foot. However, even that was a restriction as in previous years, you could drive pretty close by car. Brúárfoss was once a real insider tip before the masses of tourists were directed there through blog posts. Until the blockade, I had refrained from posting directions on the internet because this area simply cannot tolerate hundreds of tourists a day. Perhaps the situation there will change someday, but it doesn't look like it at the moment.

Going off from the Ring Road, you can reach the Gullfoss waterfall by taking the road 30 in a northerly direction for about 60 km. The Gullfoss is a fairly frequently visited waterfall that impressed me mainly due to its enormous amount of water, which plunges over two cascades into a depth of 70 meters. From a photographic point of view, however, I did not find the Gullfoss very exciting. If you drive to the Gullfoss, you are also very close to Iceland's most active geyser, Strokkur. To get to Strokkur , you drive the road 35 about 10 km in an eastern direction. You don't have to wait long for the show, because the geyser spits its 25-30 m high and hot water column into the air after at most 5 minutes.
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The small town of Vík í Mýrdal is located right on the beach, whose sand is made of black lava and is one of the 10 most beautiful beaches in the world. From the beach, you have a beautiful view of the famous rock formations, the Reynisdrangar, which rise out of the water and are said to represent petrified trolls. The Reynisdrangar rocks can be accessed from two different locations (see map). As the beach is not continuously accessible due to a rock wall, it is best to use both parking lots west and east of Reynisdrangar to approach the motif from two perspectives. At this point, I would like to draw attention to a deadly danger at the beach of Reynisdrangar. There are always monster waves on this beach, which have already caused several fatal accidents in the past. The waves are unpredictable and the beach cannot be compared to the usual shallow beaches in southern Europe. Due to the fact that this beach drops off quite quickly, extremely high waves are constantly forming. Even if you have only been observing a small surf on the beach for half an hour, you will be amazed at the enormous force suddenly unleashed by a high wave. Finally, in February 2016, a Chinese tourist died on the beach of Reynisfjara, and in January 2017, a German tourist died at the Kirkjufjara beach section due to a large wave. So please do not ignore the warning signs on the beach and do not go too close to the water to avoid more fatalities at this beach!!!

Not far away to the east of Reynisdrangar is the Dyrhólaey peninsula, which rises about 115 meters steeply out of the water. Dyrhólaey is the southernmost point of Iceland and can be reached from the Ring Road 1 via Route 218. The last stretch is driven on a gravel road which ends at a parking lot and from which everything is easily accessible on foot. Between spring and summer, puffins can be photographed well at Cape Dyrhólaey. However, the area is partially closed during the breeding season. It should also be considered that the whole area around Vik can often be very windy and wet!
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A special experience is the Landmannalaugar area, which is located near the active volcano Hekla. Incredibly vibrant colors, hot springs, moss-covered lava rocks, rising steam, and lakes await you in this section of the highlands. Landmannalaugar can be reached via the F208 road, provided the road is passable, as most highland roads are completely closed in winter and usually also into spring. So, before heading to the highlands, it is advisable to check the current road conditions:www.road.is. You can reach the F208 from the south via the Ring Road and then take the F224 to Landmannalaugar. The second option is to approach Landmannalaugar from the north via the F224 road and the F208 road: see map. At the end of the F224 road, you will reach the base camp of Landmannalaugar, from which many hiking trails start.

The Hraunfossar waterfalls are located in the west of Iceland, about 3 km west of the small town of Húsafell (see map). The small waterfall Barnafoss is in close proximity. The Hraunfossar flow for several hundred meters from a lava field into the Hvítá river, which is fed by the "Langjökull" glacier. The phenomenon of the waterfalls emerging from the rock is explained by a tributary of the Hvítá river flowing underground until it finally flows out of the lava rock, thus forming the Hraunfossar. If you drive back towards the west from the Hraunfossar, it is worth taking a detour via the 522 or 527 to the Grábrók crater. The largest of the three craters can be climbed, and from the top, there is a very nice view over the crater landscape.
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Snæfellsnes is a long peninsula in the west of Iceland (see map). The peninsula is often referred to as "Little Iceland" because Snæfellsnes, in terms of landscape, is a miniature version of Iceland. On this small peninsula, one can find waterfalls, lava fields, cliffs, and at the western end of Snæfellsnes, the 1446 m high volcano Snæfellsjökull, covered by a glacier. The road 570 runs north-south along the volcano, but it is often difficult to pass and is frequently closed due to weather conditions, even in June.
To drive along the coastline of the peninsula, one should plan for about 250 km of driving, and if one wants to experience Snæfellsnes not just from the car, I recommend planning for a two-day trip. On the southern side of Snæfellsnes, a visit to the church in Búðir is worth it, located on Route 54. If you follow the road 574 further about 20 km to the west, you will reach the small fishing village of Arnastapi. The rocky coast with many different coves and caves is worth seeing. The most famous is the rock arch of Arnastapi.

Before heading towards the Westfjords, it is advisable to check the weather forecast and road conditions. Often, some roads are still impassable even in May. As the roads in the Westfjords consist mainly of gravel, they can become very muddy and soft in case of heavy rain or sleet. The Westfjords are often skipped by most tourists who plan a round trip in Iceland. The reason for this is probably the almost endlessly rugged coastline, which only allows for very slow progress in the Westfjords. In my opinion, the sparsely populated Westfjords are definitely worth a visit, but one should plan enough time and maybe also need a bit of luck with the weather, which is often rainy and stormy in the Westfjords. A popular destination is the Dynjandi waterfall, which can be reached from the south via road 60 see map). The waterfall impresses with a height of about 100 m and a width of 60 m in the lower area.
Another worthwhile destination is the peninsula of Látrabjarg, located in the furthest west of the Westfjords. Látrabjarg is known for millions of seabirds, including the charming and popular puffins. I will discuss the photographic possibilities of puffins later in the report. A unique feature of the Westfjords is the northernmost Hornstrandir peninsula. The remote Hornstrandir is a nature reserve that can only be explored on foot. The best way to reach Hornstrandir is from the town of Ísafjörður, from which a small family business ferries wilderness-hungry hikers. There are also good chances to encounter Arctic foxes on Hornstrandir, as they are not hunted in the reserve.
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Goðafoss, the waterfall of the gods as this beautiful waterfall in the north is also called. The Goðafoss is easily accessible as it is located directly on the Ring Road about 50 km west of the port city of Akureyri, which with around 17,000 inhabitants is also the largest population center in the north (see map). You can approach the waterfall from two sides or also reach the other side via a pedestrian bridge. Depending on the water level and, of course, individual climbing skills, it is possible to climb down to the waterfall. The Goðafoss has a waterfall height of only 12 meters, and once you reach the bottom, you get completely new perspectives.

Not very far from Goðafoss, approximately 100 km drive, is the Dettifoss waterfall. The waterfall can be reached via the Ring Road, continuing eastward past the Mývatn region and then driving north on Road 862. Instead of Road 862, the Dettifoss can also be reached via Road 864, which is located slightly further to the east (see map). Weather conditions may determine which of the two roads is chosen, as Road 864 is often closed due to impassable conditions until the end of May. On the other hand, Road 862 was recently paved and is usually very passable. However, there is a downside to choosing Road 862, as it approaches the Dettifoss from the west side, while the east side offers a more beautiful view of the waterfall. With its drop of approximately 100 m, the Dettifoss is the most powerful waterfall in Europe. Usually, the Dettifoss presents a grey-brown water mass, but when the water flow of the glacier river "Jökulsá á Fjöllum" is lower, a beautiful blue color can be seen. Located very close to the Dettifoss, about 300 m upstream, is the also worthwhile Sellfoss waterfall.
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Folgt man vom Mývatn der Ringstraße etwa 5 km östlich, so erreicht man auf der rechten Seite das Hochtemperaturgebiet Hverarönð. (siehe Karte). Hverarönð liegt östlich des 482 m hohen Berges Námafjall (Bergwerksberg). Dieser Berg ist ein aktiver Vulkan und rund um den Berg befinden sich noch weitere Hochtemperaturgebiete. Am Námafjall gibt es zahlreiche so genannte Solfatare. Diese Solfataren pusten einen Mix aus Wasserdampf, Schwefelwasserstoff und Kohlendioxid aus und sind die Hauptursache für den schwefelhaltigen Geruch, der sich über das ganze Gebiet zieht. Die schwefelige Säure, die durch die Solfatare gebildet wird, greift Stein und Boden an und es bilden sich Schlammtöpfe in denen es zu Blasenbildung kommt. Hier bieten sich in Hülle und Fülle diverse Motive an!

In 1967, the Skaftafell National Park was founded and has since been merged with the Vatnajökull National Park. The Vatnajökull National Park was established in 2008 and includes the entire Vatnajökull glacier and its adjacent areas (see map). In addition to the glacier lagoons and the waterfall Svartifoss, which I will discuss in more detail below, a visit to the glacier tongues of Vatnajökull is worthwhile. A good overview of the national park can be obtained at the visitor center in Skaftafell. The glacier tongues are easily accessible from Skaftafellsjökull or further west from Svinafellsjökull. For those who want to venture deeper into the glacier, guided glacier hikes are offered practically year-round.
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On the other side of the road, opposite the glacier lagoon, there is a black sand beach called the Diamond Beach. The icebergs floating on the glacier lake come from the glacier tongue Breiðamerkurjökull and are carried by the currents into the open sea. The ocean surf, in turn, causes small ice floes to be pushed back onto the beach. There are very nice photo opportunities on the beach and it's worth a visit. The exact location and number of ice floes washed up on the beach depend on the respective currents and surf.

A bit further west and very close to Jökulsárlón there are two more glacier lagoons (Fjallsárlón and Breiðárlón) which are also worth visiting! About an hour's drive east of Jökulsárlón and near the town of Höfn, you'll find the Stokksnes peninsula. From there, you have a beautiful view of the Vestrahorn, which is part of the mountain Klifatindur.
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Puffins (English) or Lundis (Icelandic) are also known as clowns of the sky. There are several million pairs of these cute and unshy birds in Iceland. If you want to photograph them, you should try your luck in Iceland between April and August, as during the other months, puffins exclusively live at sea. As puffins prefer to nest on steep cliffs during their breeding season, and there are plenty of those in Iceland, there are many places to observe and photograph these popular birds. I would like to describe two well-known locations that are particularly suitable for photographing puffins in more detail.

Winter in Iceland is definitely a special time, as even during the other seasons, the weather is unpredictable, but in the winter, you never know what to expect. From heavy storms, massive amounts of snow, gray rainy days, to beautiful sunshine, anything is possible. In any case, be prepared for the fact that driving a car is not always possible. Winter can start as early as October and last until April. The highlands are then closed and can only be driven in parts with super jeeps. It is therefore recommended to plan a flexible itinerary and to always plan for an extra day or two to avoid missing the return flight. The roads are usually not salted and only irregularly cleared. I recommend an off-road vehicle for winter, but an SUV is also sufficient, as it has the appropriate ground clearance and does not get stuck so quickly. Spikes on the tires (especially in the north) are more than advantageous, but unfortunately not mandatory, so I would advise asking the car rental company in case of doubt. And while we're on the subject of spikes, it's also advisable to have them on your shoes, as neither walkways to tourist attractions nor accommodations are usually salted in winter.

For someone who is dealing with car rental in Iceland for the first time, it quickly becomes apparent that this topic is not as easy to handle as it would be in other holiday destinations. This is due, among other things, to the extremely high prices for rental cars in Iceland and to the fact that the road and weather conditions on the island can vary greatly. So, what kind of car do you need? First, I would answer the question of whether an all-wheel-drive vehicle is necessary. There are very different road surfaces in Iceland. It starts with well-paved roads, like most of the Ring Road, and ends with roads that can only be tackled with an all-wheel drive off-road vehicle. In particular, in the highlands, all-wheel drive is mandatory because there are paths that can only be passed by crossing some fords. A 4x4 off-road vehicle is necessary and even mandatory on all roads marked as F-roads. Generally, highland roads are not allowed to be driven on with a simple car and this is not recommended! Even in winter, which can start in October and often doesn't end until May in Iceland, an all-wheel drive vehicle can be very useful. If you don't want to visit the highlands with a rental car and your trip doesn't fall into the winter months, a simple car without all-wheel drive is sufficient for Iceland. If flexible overnight stays in the car are desired, mini-campers or motorhomes are also suitable for the trip. In any case, the campers and motorhomes should have a heating system, as even in summer the nights can get very cold.

Crossing a ford is certainly the most exciting part of driving in the highlands. Especially as a beginner, one should approach the matter with the corresponding respect and, in case of doubt, retreat. As already mentioned, water damage is not covered by anyone's insurance, so everything is at your own risk. The fords can have very different water levels and these often fluctuate even within a day. So if you crossed a ford very easily in the morning, it does not mean that the return journey in the evening will work just as well. Unfortunately, it is not always possible to determine exactly how deep a ford is, because if the water is dirty, you will not be able to see the bottom. In case of doubt, you can of course first cross the ford on foot, as long as you are not deterred by cold water on your legs. Alternatively, you can also wait until another vehicle passes the ford in front of your eyes, because perhaps the driver is on the way back, knows the ford, or simply has no fear. So if you know roughly how deep the ford is at its deepest point, the next look should be at your own vehicle. Simple SUVs with all-wheel drive often have a manufacturer-approved wading depth of only 40 cm, which is not enough for many fords. Only the large off-road vehicles (e.g. Land Rover Defender or Discovery, Toyota Land Cruiser, or Jeep Grand Cherokee) or even the modified super jeeps make it possible to tackle more difficult passages in the highlands. In addition to the depth, the ground conditions and water flow can also be decisive.

Iceland is certainly one of the most expensive travel destinations on this planet, and the financial crisis from 2008 to 2011 did not change that much. This is particularly noticeable when you want to rent a car. For a larger SUV, you can easily pay 1000 euros per week during the high season. The prices for accommodation, as with car rentals, depend heavily on the time of year. From May 31st to August 31st, it is high season in Iceland and prices skyrocket during this period. During the high season, it is also advisable to book your accommodation in advance. As mentioned at the beginning, Iceland is very sparsely populated, so the infrastructure is not very well developed. Although there are plenty of gas stations in populated areas, it can happen that there is no larger supermarket in some places, and supplies have to be purchased from the convenience store of a gas station. In these small stores, don't be surprised if a pack of toast costs 3 euros!
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