How to photograph birds

The choice of approach depends on many factors. Firstly, it must be determined how accessible the area is. Is the area accessible by car, is there good cover, can I set up a hide, and am I allowed to enter the area without permission? After these questions have been answered, it is also important to determine how shy the birds are. There are extreme differences in flight distance, which depend on the bird species and whether the birds are used to people. It is a huge difference whether you want to photograph birds in a city park or in a nature reserve. While taking pictures of birds with smaller telephoto lenses and without camouflage is usually not much of a challenge in a park, it is extremely difficult if you want to photograph a crow or heron in a nature reserve from your car. Some bird species such as crows, herons, or birds of prey react to the slightest movement and noises in their environment. Especially in Germany where hunting pressure on animals is quite high, it is often necessary to deal with large flight distances. Even birds that are no longer allowed to be hunted, such as birds of prey, seem to perceive humans as a threat based on their instincts. This even extends to changing the environment, such as setting up a hide, which can pose a threat to the animals under certain circumstances. In the case of the hide, one can only try to accustom the birds to the changed environment over the long term by setting up the tent a few days before in that location.

When starting nature photography, a lot of photographers have the goal of taking a photo of a kingfisher. So I have decided to write a few lines about it. At the beginning of my own nature photography it was also my goal to capture this "blue diamond" in high quality. At first, I thought it was an unattainable or at least highly difficult task. However, after having photographed several kingfishers in recent years, I have come to the conclusion that taking a photo of a kingfisher is not such a big challenge. Of course, how easy something is is always relative, but there are certainly a very large number of bird species that are much more difficult to photograph.

OK, what to do now? When it comes to photographing a kingfisher, the main task is preparation. The main challenge is to find a kingfisher in the first place and that's more than "half the battle." Kingfishers love clear waters with a fish population. This could be a stream or a still body of water. When it comes to a stream, make sure the flow is not too fast. Ideally, the stream has a small dip or takes a curve, making it easier for the kingfisher to hunt a small fish. So the first step is to use binoculars to find a location with a kingfisher. During the search, also include your ears, as the kingfisher has a typical high, piercing call that can be easily recognized. Once you have discovered a kingfisher, the rest is relatively easy. A kingfisher is very faithful to its territory and is a sit hunter. So if you know the branch the kingfisher is on to look into the water to search for prey, all you need is camouflage and patience ;-)
(back to the beginning)

When I started bird photography many years ago, I was happy with every technically successful bird photo I took. When I caught a bird that was rarely seen, I was especially happy. Even then, I paid attention to nice light and a possible "golden ratio" in the composition of the picture, but over time I realized that this alone does not make a first-class bird photo! For me, a first-class photo tells a story. A photo with a bird completely separated from the background has little to no additional meaning, as if the background reveals little or nothing about the environment, the photo can only be declared as a good documentation. Although I still take these types of photos from time to time, capturing the bird as closely as possible, these have become rare and I rarely find them truly appealing after reviewing my photos. So, if you want to give your bird photos more than just biological meaning and add emotions to them, it's definitely worth trying to incorporate more background into the photo. It's much more interesting for the viewer to learn about the bird's habitat besides just the bird itself. However, there should be a basic rule that should always be desired, with very few exceptions (flight photos or special perspectives), that is, to photograph the bird at eye level. Therefore, I only photograph birds that are on the ground in a lying position and often only with a bean bag as a support for the lens.
(back to the beginning)

Winter feeding provides a good opportunity to come up with nice bird photos with a manageable time investment. In winter, birds can be easily fed especially when the surrounding is covered with snow. In summer, most birds prefer insects, but with limited availability of insects in winter, they switch to seed food. Setting up a winter feeding station is relatively simple, but there are some things to consider to get good results. The location of the winter feeding station should not be the garden as it limits the choice of bird species that come to the feeding area. A place near the edge of the forest is better suited. The forest is not usually a good location as the light conditions are often not optimal. Of course, one should ask the owner of the property for permission to set up the winter feeding station.

There is probably no other area in nature photography that encounters a similar large amount of equipment as in bird photography. This usually means the need for as much focal length and light intensity as possible, and unfortunately, that also means it can quickly become expensive. Especially in Germany, where birds usually have large escape distances, 500-600 mm in bird photography is not uncommon. Of course, there are exceptions where the animals are accustomed to humans or you want to include a lot of environment in the picture, but even here, small focal lengths quickly reach their limits. If you can't or don't want to spend so much money on a lens, and are just starting out in bird photography, it is advisable to start with a 300-400 mm focal length. Many people find after a while that they don't have the patience for bird photography, and in that case, it makes sense not to spend too much money at the beginning. With a 300mm (initial aperture 4) + teleconverter and a crop camera, you already have quite acceptable options. Besides a tripod, a beanbag is useful if you want to take pictures from the car. The desire for a hide will not be long in coming if you want to pursue bird photography more intensively. I also often use only a camouflage Throw Over Hide (bag hid), as I am much more flexible and less noticeable than with a large camouflage tent.
(back to the beginning)